New color!

Still working on the frontThe Huge Tarp now leaks big time. Leaked like a sieve through Irene.  I had tossed some of the Zip panels up on the back end, & tacked them, but where ever it was only tarp, leaked bad.  Luckily I had rolled out the whatever Tyvek was on the roll, on the floor under there & draped over 2x3s.  I sponged up about 2=3 gals of water off the Tyvek.  Still was very wet inside.  So been working to get the Zip panels roof up for good.   I have all the large ones up (needed help getting them up there)  I finished what I could on the back end from squeezing myself through the left over space at the ridge, & then started working on closing in the ridge back with the small pieces of Zip Panels & the final taping.  I putting a small strip of Tyvek is at the ridge.  I can cut it from the inside, when the steel roofing ridge goes up.   I tried  repainting some at the top of the dormer, before I Zipped that.   We are due for more than a few days of rain soon.  So want the roof much tighter this time.

Because of that flat dormer side & possible traveling in rain?  You have to think what water might do there.  I have a whole piece of that Ice Guard one the side of the dormer.  It goes OVER the one piece custom flashing.  Then the steel roofing, then another piece of flashing, then T-111 will go up (well caulked on the bottom edge).   Phenoseal for there, & will use silicone for the Metal roofing side.  Silicone never comes off metal & stays flexible, but will NOT stick to wood.  If that small piece of T-111 ever rots from not “breathing”, easy to replace.

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Front End Framing

Front End framing

I finished getting all the rafters up.  So I’m finally tieing in the front end framing.  I had to, to figure the edge of the first Zip system roofing panels.   The front is flat for about 5′, then falls back about 6″ in depth.  Was done for 2 main reasons. One for a little aerodynamics, & two to give me the few inches I needed for the half round Lazy Susan & kitchen sink depth. The middle 5″ is cantilevered over main steel frame, the 6″.  I placed the studding tight, for the height vs taking it at highways speeds somewhere.  Plus I picked/saved the hardest tightest grain studs. If you have noticed in handling wood, some studs are harder & stiffer………….if you look close at the ends…….they have the really tight grain.  Pick/Use them for certain stress places.   There is a window, but it does not open, or hopefully leak on the road.  Even though this THT is not meant to be moved very often.  Will have to at least make a trip from western NY to western NC.

Also can see my new color!  Will look better with the light colored roof & the trim will now show up.

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Front end Rafters

Finally have some of the front end Rafters up.  To get to them, I did a bunch of other stuff first, as I want to do as much of the work reaching over the top of the walls from the inside, rather than off a ladder at my age.   A ladder KILLS your feet, & I now am fighting with Plantar fasciitis.  But I also move much more slowly up on my Jungle Jim staging up there than I used to!   Self Preservation” kicks in stronger & stronger the older you get!  Can see some of the front end framing I’ve been working on, hanging off the plank.

This area is all cathedral ceilings to open up the “Great Room” area.   So there are 3 collar ties up, I put planks on them for staging.  So I finished flashing the 8′ seam on the  dormer face (will cut to size for some small awning window I have yet to find.)  My spacing on my rafters is 18″, which is the layout for the ridges for the nailing on my Everlast roofing.   I’ll be using the new Zip System panels on the roof.  They are stiffer than plywood, & I won’t have to fight the breeze putting down Tyvek or felt by myself.  My Monster Tarp is hanging off a nail on the back end.   It ended all twisted & was all messed up directional wise.  Luckily I wasn’t fighting a wind that night, & finally found a end rope I KNEW what corner it was on.   Will be so happy to not need that Tarp, I think it weights as much as I do!

For those who would like to make their own flashing.   As I cut my T-111 joints at a 45% angle & sealed both ends, & had this brown painted heavy steel on hand.    This is how you put your smooth bend on it with out getting hammer marks.  Use two pieces of wood, & nail metal in place.  One board holds the metal tight to the edge, the other you bang it to shape.

I have to do T-111  joints at both gable ends too.  Put in the vent & finish the front end framing before I put all the Zip panels up.   I may try and see if I can reach to get the roof trim up on the gables first too.   My front has a bow in it(see Plans).   So it’s tricky “make it up as I go” framing.

I never like what the stain color ended up as, A LOT more orange than what “showed”.  So I figured I would let that be like a primer coat repaint it someday…………………. well a friend said it looked like a caboose!   I said , Yuck!  & decided to re stain it NOW.  I can do the pieces I haven’t up yet, &  before I get the trim up to have carefully edge around. The whole idea of doing it BEFORE.

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Trying to Close It in Better.

My weather in the summer comes from mostly  2 directions. the south over to the  Northwest.   So been working on closing those sides first.

Framed Loft end with a Small Vent

I have been hoarding this cute little cedar vent for about 30 yrs!   Finally I have somewhere to use it.  It is about 14″ x 18″.   So I renailed it, replaced the fiberglass screen with Copper screening, I have seen where wasps will chew right there the fiberglass screening) & stained it, & framed the loft wall for it.   I DO know I need to close it up in the winter.   Wind will blow snow right up & in & then melt.  So I will cut a cover for it.   I will have  a ridge vented too.  But a closed in loft area, will get hot.  I was able to get a few more T-111 pieces up on the back wall too.

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Wrapped Up for Irene!

Irene is here, I figured a day of “rest” for me,  meaning clean house & cook something REAL!

Irene Wrapped

So this is My Tiny House Trailer all wrapped up tight.  The framing for the front is somewhat up but not tied in tight at the top & plywood is just tack up.  Been using a piece of the Everlast to cover the doorway.  I still have to cut the door down (to fit under the awning) Otherwise there would be no need to with my cathedral ceiling design.  Maybe a Irene project….. but off to clean house first.

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First Sets of Rafters Up

I have a first sets of rafters up, (until I ran out of ridge).  I need to build the rest of the walls to add the second half of the ridge up.

1st Set of rafters Up

Put Tyvek up on the end wall, & now much dryer at that end.  As I’m still dodging T-storms every day.  There is not a lot of room up there, but I can crawl around, & store things up there.   I painted the floor white & have run a wire running up there for a light later.

First set of Rafters Up

You can see where I have dropped the front on the rafter tails, that’s where the Awning will sit.   With it at this height now, I have to leave the Huge Tarp hanging somewhere, or I’ll never get it back up by myself.  I hope it lasts through til the roof is up.  I’m using Everlast II steel roofing.   Mainly because I have 9 6′ pieces left over from reroofing my huge barn on The Vineyard, when the Ondura roofing went within 8 yrs.   Everlast had seemed the best steel roofing out there for the salt air.

It is not going to look pretty, as it will be fasten down with the crews & rubber washers.

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As I’m trying to get it weather tight, while fighting with the weather, & building outside.  Add that it’s in a spot that the weather comes howling across a 150 acre ex hay field.  (why I never could put my awning out on the Trailer).  I’m trying to get to the rafters/roof point fast.  We have been getting days & days of scattered T-storms, and wrapping & unwrapping something that big of it’s heavyduty 20′ x 30′ tarp, by myself takes so much time.  Add a pre T-storm WIND if I wait too long to start………………..  I could end up sailing into in the neighbor’s yard.  If I do it 3 times in a day, I then just give UP for the day.  Now it has small holes in it, & leaks on a flat surface.

Finally starting on the roof.  Now since I’m building to a height of UNDER 13’ 6”, not some perfect 8 pitch, it doesn’t matter.   I’m just going to build my rafters to have a height an inch or so under 13′ 6″.  I don’t need a lot of room up there, so will not push the height limit.

So I designed my rafter patterns on the top deck. I use an outside edge, & find the middle & drew a line up to my height.  I just laid a 2”x6” down until it sits at the height I’d like & a “Bird’s Mouth” I like, finally an over hang I like.   Add a 2”x4” block in the center(ridge) & draw.  I’m giving myself more overhang on the front to house my awning, & little on the back. 

Then cut & built a pair into like a truss using a piece of plywood as a gusset, set at the height to cup your ridge into. I stood it up & tested it, Looked at the “Lines” from the ground.  You can put these up by your self easily.  Build two pairs. Nail/screw a piece of wood to each outside corner, to keep your “truss’


corner, to keep your truss from slipping off the edge. Mark your ridge & both outside edges, drop your ridge board into the slot, screw somewhat square to the rafter.  Go to the far end of your ridge & lift & drop into your second set.  Set at a mark & start tack in.  Then just work from the outside in placing your rafters.

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Don’t forget The Buried Wires

When doing open/exposed joist framing, you have

Buried wires

to plan & place your wiring(and sometimes plumbing too).  Before you lay your flooring.  You can kinda see the two kinds of wires, I have coming up from a wall, I buried in the channel I cut into the top of the ceiling joist.   14/2 runs off the 110 ground line, & outlets, Mircowave, & AC .  & all the colored ones will run things that can run off the battery or 12 volts, Frig, lights, radio, water plump, etc.   It does weaken the joist, but this one has a wall under it on both sides & only 2 feet for a door.  It is another reason why I choose this one for all the wires.

I had 3 joists cut in like this.  The pictured one was the most wires.   I should cover with a metal shield, but didn’t.  I guess I should write it in a notebook, for if I ever sell it.

Would be the same if you want to have a light on the bottom of or next to a large Beam, like I did in my Vineyard House.   I had the same “type” of ceiling /floor.  Fir beams with 2″ x6″ spruce roofers.   No insulation or space for wires.  Most Lofts in Tiny homes are built this way.    If framing your own house, it IS something to think about. You don’t need an electrician to do it.  Just buy a piece of wire long enough to go from the panel box to light, to switch, & add a few feet for good luck(you’ll never get to it again).  & remember if you want it switched from 2 places…… entering from different ends of a room,  has to be 14/3 wire.

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Floor Plan

I guess somewhere along here I need to put up the floor plan, & explain it.  So here goes.

Travel Trailer to Tiny House Trailer

I really liked the floor plan when I bought it in the first place.  For a single person living in it, for a extended lengths of time WITH 4 good sized dogs!   So I have a “As I bought it plan”.  Then what I changed or added.  Then the total rebuilt.

As I bought it.  The Kitchen was pretty good sized. I didn’t like the sink where it was, VERY awkward to use.  Would have a little better if the big side was at least on the right.  But it should be under the front window to have more work space beside the stove. Had cabinets above all around.   Living room didn’t have too much in built in cabinets, allowing me space to place dog crates.   There was no INSIDE storage under the couch?   I liked the walk through bathroom as it was much larger then, than any other Trailers I walked through.  Just curtain to the bedroom, I never used.  Had a tub?, could never use as the hot water hardly made to the shower! (I found out WHY!)

My changes:  I needed a place for my “Office” computer, files, etc.  So first thing, I took off the table top, moved the base over a little & made a big top that went to the wall & over into the kitchen much more.   I used the table top on my biggest dog crate at the door.  I have a custom coffee table made of a leftover piece of Heavy Stainless Steel Restaurant Stove venting, from a job. I put a wooden doors on either end. Holds shoes, boots, dog grooming supplies, etc.  Took the closet pole out of the living room closet, so it was clear for large storage, Vac & the like.  Put up a high shelf with hooks under on the frig wall for coats, the outside wall had many high tiny hooks at the ceiling for my many hats.    Bath: I added another cabinet in the bath & hooks for towels.  Bedroom: I took down TV shelf & put hooks to hang my pants.

New Floor Plan:

I tried to fix what I didn’t like with the original floor plan, mainly to squeeze in a REAL Office.    Bedroom:  So the bed is dropped to a fullsized from a queen, & flipped.  Add a window to look out. ( couples wouldn’t work as well) Plus a large double casement, where the second door was. That will now be my egress exit from the back.  I will put drawers under the closets, & under the bed or reuse the “Whole Bed Flip Up” set up that it came with.    Office: Since too much light makes a Laptop screen hard to see, only have a doublehung window on the far side also to hold a tiny window AC unit near bedroom.  Changed the tub angle to give more room for the office chair at the desk.  Upper cabinets above of course.  Dropped the linen closet since I dropped the vanity sink.  There still is the closet with drawers under next to the toilet.    Living Room :  About the same.  I will have a oversized deep couch/daybed. One that is large enough to build dog crates & storage under it.  Then remove the back cushions & have a guest bed.   I may put a cabinet in the corner again, but want to leave the option/ room for a small chest freezer I have, or another large dog crate.  I ended up with my only “booboo” litter of puppies in the middle of an up state NY winter in the RV!).    Kitchen:  I have moved the sink over to under the window. (It is a fixed tempered glass one, for the road)  Used a small half round Lazy Susan,  plus will use more drawers (put baby latches on for the road?)

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Really Moving Now!

2 nd Wall up & Back Wall Framed

A second wall is up(only half this time), & the back is framed.  I’m waiting for the T-111 on the back, until I get the rafters up.  So I can run the full sheet 8’ height on that T-111, & have less of a joint.  As again I cut mine at an angle & will have to make my own flashing for the joint.  So less for me to make.  Since I’m not holding much up in my loft. I’m using 2”x3”s as ceiling/floor  joists, with ½ “ finish Plywood, Floor.  Over the years between horses & building, I have dislocated my shoulders many times.  I pre painted everything BEFORE  I put it up!    Then I’m just touching up spots later.  Same as I did with the T-111,  same as I will with the interior paneling.  I will use a semigloss & hopefully just wash of finger prints, etc.  from installing.

I have only 1/2 of the other long wall up.  I have to do some of the wiring now, as some will be buried in a channel cut in on the top of my ceiling joists.  I decided not to run wiring under as I found there had been mice under inside the frame. So all that has to be run before I tie in the wall.  I will be SO happy to be able to get rid of that one 2″x4″ bracing piece right in the middle of everything!

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